Around the World in 80 Days: Searching for Socialism

Even though I grew up in East Germany, I cannot claim that I really know what communism/socialism is. Of course, I know the standard definition along the lines of classless, moneyless society with common ownership, but I have little understanding of what that means in practice. My mother sometimes tells stories of day-long queues outside shops selling chocolate Santas, of not being allowed to study what you want, of having to wait years to beallocated a car, of not being allowed to travel freely...

But these are only stories to me; stories of extreme situations. I don't know what it actually means to live in a communist country - day today. Is there money? How do food stamps work? How health care? How do producers motivate their employees to not just sit around all day long? I sadly have no idea.

And sadly for me, but good for its people, Cuba was not be the place where I would find out.

In socialist Cuba, the Government owns most businesses and 80% of people work for government. Investors require permission to start operations in Cuba and employees approval when wanting to change jobs. Basic health care, education and housing are free and government pays old age pensions. On paper, this doesn't look all that different from many developing countries... And in practice it doesn't either.

There are plenty of relatively well-stocked shops in Havana, money is widely used and people wear modern clothes and have cellphones. But I guess just because I saw these goods, doesn't necessarily mean that they are actually available. In fact, there were several signs that it is probably not always easy (or possible) for the people of Cuba to get the things they would like to have. For example a lady in the customs queue at the airport, who was busy declaring endless amounts of goods ranging from computer screens to packs of diapers...

But altogether, Cuba did not feel different from other countries because of its socialist ideology. No, it felt different because it seemed like time had stood still.

Until the early 1960's, the US had not only been a major supplier of goods to Cuba, but also the main export destination for Cuban products. But after discovering that Cuba had secretly allowed the Soviets to build a nuclear missile base on its grounds, from which most cities in the US could be reached, the US enforced a near-total commercial, economic and financial embargo on Cuba. Trade froze completely and from one day to the next, Cuba found itself cut off from all supplies.

Virtually over night, everything people used to be able to buy disappeared and they had to make do with what they could make, grow, produce themselves. Progress stopped and all material things remained of the same standard.

As a result, everything in Havana feels old (or to put a nice spin on it, vintage). The furniture, the pictures, the china, the bathroom appliances and - maybe most noticeably - the cars, which all look like they have rolled straight out of a remake of "Grease".

The beautiful yet utterly run-down colonial villas are a sad reminder of Cuba's glorious past as Getaway for the Rich and Famous.

But fortunately Cubans have made the best of a terrible situation and rejoiced, if now in material things and worldly possessions, in literature, arts and music. People in Cuba may be driving cars from 1950's movie sets, drink their tea out of vintage china and sit on worn out sofas, but they all know not just where Germany is, but all about our history, current political situation, writers, musicians and football players.

And while playing a game of chess, the guitar or discussing history, politics or the meaning of life, Cubans can look out onto the turquoise ocean, enjoy a glass of rum and a cigar.

Socialist or not, life can't be all that bad in Cuba...